Named by native Salish tribes Mount Shuksan is 10th highest peak in the Cascades. Shuksan summit pyramid couloir is about 40% snow covered. Participants age 15: May only participate in private climbs and must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. 810 State Route 20 Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimney's + SE Ridge. 2020-07-25-26 Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. This trail goes by Park Boundary Marker, Upper Curtis Glacier, and The Hourglass. There are a couple down trees on the trail in the forest. Our guides are friendly, very willing to share their own experiences, and can help you develop a plan to achieve your own climbing ambitions. It didnt take long, and we arrived at the entrance of the chimney itself. Youll save yourself energy and youll protect the wilderness. A memorable climb: we had an open bivy on the little ridgetop in great weather, the glaciers and snow were in good shape for casual travel, we added two people to our party at the summit, we added two more on the descent at Winnie's . Once the shop opens there is adequate time to pick-up items during the gear check the morning of the climb. Close Fires are a pleasurable, old-fashioned pastime but they are not necessary for cooking or warmth. Do pick up blue bags at a ranger station and keep some handy on every climb! The thin floor still always makes me nervous on rocky terrain. The Fisher Chimneys portion of the climb ascend the imposing West face of the mountain, skirting the . Baker-Snoqualmie & Okanogan-Wenatchee, and Shoshone National Forests, the North Cascades and Denali National Parks, as well as Monticello, Moab, and Banks Lake Bureau of Land Management and Washington State Parks. A National Parks pass may suffice. The traditional name of Mount Shuksan in the Nooksack language is Shqsan ("high foot") or Ch'sqen ("golden eagle") Climbing this mountain can be a significant challenge, especially taking the route that we did. Shuksan. Then I pulled the rope for them, packed up the picket anchor and downclimbed Hells Highway while they reconfigured the rope for glacier travel down below. Mt. Mt. Dinner in high camp. For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Global Rescue. Additionally, only one person (Joe) was available for that weekend. All our guides carry current certification in wilderness first aid. I also had never led a complex alpine route or led anything glaciated before. Many areas of the park are remote and seldom visited, with few or no current conditions reports. Food Canister requirements in portions of some popular climbing zones. A mixed glacier and 4th class rock climb/scramble, a bit more challenging than the Sulphide Glacier route, and joining the Sulphide route on the summit pyramid. Intro to Sport Climbing These trips are low ratio, small group expeditions led by some of the most experienced guides in the business. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner. Rapping the famous 'dihedral'. Not a bad considering it was Joe's first ever climbing experience of any kind! With over 40 years of history on the mountain RMI is . If you have never rock climbed before, we strongly recommend that you participate in one of our rock climbing courses before climbing the Fisher Chimneys: Intro to Alpine Rock Climbing Note: Women may want to bring an extra sports bra in case one becomes wet. Physical fitness is the foundationof everymountainadventure. Day 3: Breakfast. The boot pack from the parties coming down was still faintly visible so we made decent time in the dark across the Upper Curtis glacier. Learn to co-exist with the devils club Winnies is steep but also had a great boot pack, so I used it as a good teaching moment to let Joe take lead and put in a running belay with pickets. Very happy to be done with the chimney scrambling and have the helmets off. Traverse across a large talus field, gaining about 100 ft, to a gully on the far side. Their jagged ridges and rocky summits are surrounded by snowfields and glaciers, which will put all of your previous mountaineering skills to the test. We lose precious daylight hours and we expose ourselves to quickly shiftingmountainconditions and weather. I had some field trips in July planned to practice snow and glacier skills, some conditioners up mailbox peak, and had booked campsites near Mazama for the first weekend, intended to be 'rock practical skills'. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. A higher camp is feasible below the chimneys at ~5,600 ft. Pre-dawn alpine start form High Camp ascending the glaciers to the Summit of 9131 with light summit packs. Beginning at Austin Pass, the Lake Ann Trail enters the Mount Baker Wilderness as it switchbacks down into the headwaters of the Swift Creek Drainage. Vertical Gain Climbing: 2,500 feet This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or for all portions of these zones, and was purposely limited, after two years of internal review and public comment, to areas of high use by both humans and wildlife, where wildlife has become habituated to getting human food, and other methods of food storage were ineffective, improper, or impossible. This left enough space to pack extra climbing gear just in case I had to build bail anchors, climb technical ice, or raise/lower us out of a situation. Since departures require a minimum number of participants, Northwest Alpine Guides must adhere to a stringent refund policy. Fisher Chimneys- 7/18/16. 98284, Download the official NPS app before your next visit. For travel insurance or Global Rescue membership. updates, images and resources. Icon of a mountain with a flag planted on top. Mt. If there is no trail or designated camp, always look for rock, snow, or bare ground to travel or pitch camp. There are also bivy sites above the chimneys, both above and below Winnie's Slide, with access to running water. From the top of the Slide, moderate climbing across three glaciers (White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide) leads to the foot of the summit pyramid, which we ascend via a 3rd class scramble up the central gully, or 5th class rock climbing on the pyramids Southeast Ridge. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. You are responsible to carry all of your personal gear and food, as well as a portion of group gear (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, etc.). Joe and Rob rapped down the steep section. There are no resources for this route/place. Care for the trees (and flowers and meadows) This is our happy place. The Fisher Chimneys is the classic all-around alpine climb in the North Cascades. The NWAG office does not coordinate ridesharing or carpooling and we are unable to share customer or guide contact information due to privacy concerns. Cold drinking water will be available in high camp. The team will start with a welcome meeting, run through a group gear-check and program orientation. Travel, evacuation and rescue coverage designed for adventure travelers. Weather can be severe in the North Cascades. I've done both. We ate some snacks, enjoyed the expansive views of the North Cascades as the cloud layer was starting to break up and reveal the smaller peaks around us. These are wild places of true exploration, adventure, and often epic stories of physical challenge. Bordered by Shuksan Arm to the north and Artist Ridge to the south, you will travel through meadows and wooded areas. Pick up a clear trail and descend 150 ft, turn right, traverse, descend another several hundred feet, finally coming out at the edge of a talus slope. Climbs of Fisher Chimneys start from the North side of the mountain and hike past a beautiful small lake before tackling the complex yet very moderate rock climbing terrain of the Fisher . We did our best to keep our bags dry as we packed up and hit the trail by around 8am to tackle the chimneys. What a beautiful place! Shuksan. My goal was to be back at high camp by noon, a little over 8 hours later. This low ratio program (2:1 max) is tailored to the goals, objectives, and experience level of participants, including ascents of both Mt. Before June 16, priority for Foothills Climbing community. Please see our Custom Guiding pages for more information or Contact Us for a custom program. Six people is the recommended party size for this climb. We do not recommend an additional pack for summit day. Draped in glaciers and capped with a beautiful, 3-sided summit pyramid, it more than lives up to its name. Shuksan, which is generally regarded as the Sulphide Glacier route. Area Status: Open. They can be purchased in advance or the day of the gear check. In recent years, many climbers have noticed and complained, with bitterness touched by sadness, about the myriad of fluttering flags found along many, many routes in the North Cascades. Joe making his way up the ridge. Last light as we exited the chimneys proper and continued on our descent. The Mountain Bureau will never share or sell your information. Shuksan, Mt. Permit Areas; Google Calendar; Publications; Climb Routes; Navigation Resources; About Us Membership Icon of an X inside a circle. All meadows are susceptible to trampling damage, and erosion from too many boots trodding one path can dislodge plant species and cause more erosion. Day 2: Climb the North Face, circumnavigate to the base of the summit pyramid, climb to the summit, descend to the top of the Fisher Chimneys. Monday Friday / 9:00 5:00 PT, 3 Day Climb Washington State 9,131 ft. You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. We cross two glaciers, the White Salmon and the Upper Curtis, then ascend Hells Highway to the Sulphide Glacier and the base of the summit pyramid. Summit Mount Hood! Take a walk before dinner and find a scenic site far from your camp area to cook and wash up. more information on current conditions Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Three or four 15-minute lunch & snack breaks during the hike to high camp. Our Northwest programs begin at the date, time and meeting location listed in the itinerary in your PreClimb Information. At the top, we ran into a guided group being short roped up the chimneys. Shuksan Arm is located in the Mount Baker National Forest. With the second weekend rapidly approaching I had to figure out what our objective would be. The balance can be paid by check, or credit card. We weren't in a huge rush on day one so we left Seattle at 7 AM and started hiking around 10 AM. The Northwest Rib is nearly unknown, and rarely climbed. At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. When you return from your adventure, you can submit a conditions report if you like-or, you can decide that some places are best when you discover them on your own. I ran into the bathroom. The small town of Sedro-Woolley, The Gateway to the North Cascades, is approximately 70 miles and a 1.5-hour drive from Seattle or Bellevue. That said, it is linked to one of the most striking features on the mountain. Turn around when conditions or common sense tell you to do so. Our instructors are highly skilled professional guides who have been selected based on their technical proficiency, proven safety records, careful judgment, patience, and supportive teaching styles. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. We generally arrive back at our cars by early afternoon and conclude our adventure in Sedro-Woolley. Our initial plan was to camp at the bottom of Winnie's slide but the ranger station put an end to that saying all permits for the Price glacier area were gone for the weekend. Having two ropes was great, but the 55m limitation from having a 60m and a 50m resulted in slightly imperfect linkups between every other rap station. Shuksan. The North Cascades are a climber's playground. Please visit the online Gear Shop for a list of available merchandise and to pre-purchase items. Never bury waste in snow, throw it in a crevasse, or smear it near your route or camp. Permits are mandatory any time you plan to spend the night, whether in a tent or at a bivy site. Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys. The approach is brutalvery steep and much longer than the guidebooks make it seem, and the slabs can be sketchy, the route finding is much more challenging, and time management and speed is a big deal because it's much a longer route, you're pitching out sections which takes a lot of time, and there . My Tarptent ProTrail Li has never been that easy to set up but perfectly, but it was great for this trip; light, well ventilated and with a compact footprint. Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guides for recommendations. The Fisher Chimneys route on the mountain's northwest side offers an abundance of moderate, enjoyable climbing. No summit is ever worth injury or death. We got together early every Thursday and worked on rope skills, gear selection, and other academic type content that was workable in a classroom setting, with the intent of 'graduating' with two weekend climbing trips in August. HMG Prism was just about perfect for this trip - gypsy camp with everything packed but perfect slimmed down on summit day. Top of chimney to Summit: No exposed steep ice but some adjacent patches starting to show. It switchbacks, crosses two gullys, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the first chimney. Meeting locations may vary depending on program destination. September 2017. Watch for rockfall in the chimneys and take special care on the summit pyramid gully because of loose rock and multiple parties. Participants age 16 & 17: May participate in fixed-date group itineraries if accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. Lodging in Burlington and Sedro-Woolley, Washington. It is longer, steeper, and involves more technical terrain than the standard Sulphide Glacier Route on Mount Shuksan. My goal for the summer of 2022 was to reinvigorate my goal of leading alpine climbs; the last time I had led anything was back in 2016-2017; and at that time, I had led a few multi-pitch rock climbs to 5.7 but nothing truly alpine. Tail end of the milky way over Mt. Guidebooks Numerous popular climbing guidebooks are available for learning about routes and peaks in the park. The Mountain Bureau LLC operates under Special Use Permits with the Mt. Enjoy a Northwest Alpine Guides adventure and summit a beautiful peak in the heart of North Cascades National Park. For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you mustbe able to maintain the pace set by our guideswhile maintaining reserves of strength. Cost- $1395 (1:1), $1950 (2:1) There was no boot pack to the SE ridge so I had to somewhat guess where it started. Climbing Time: 7-9 hours. There are no entry fees or parking fees within North Cascades National Park Service Complex; however, many routes or trails begin on National Forest land, and a parking pass is required (i.e. Rockfall is a concern in the chimneys. We busted out the stoves and had a hot lunch at the lower bivy section while we waited for the occupying party to come down. No extra acclimatization is necessary for this program. Dinner in high camp. Photo by K.Beckwith. Shuksan. These items are required for our Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneyclimb. Gear may be purchased from the Guide Hut in person on the morning of your climb, or in advance viaourOnline Gear Shop. They offer big mountain terrain in an unbelievable setting. Read our Four-Legged Stool blog post for tips on finding the right adventure for you. Take exit 232 from I-5 S, Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) Mt. . After the clinics the team will apply their new skills with a move to high camp; 1.5 Mile, +1,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hours Skills Session, with 2 Hours of Travel TIme.Day 3 - Summit Day! To make a climbing report, please e-mail the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Our alpine guides will meet you for team introductions, gear check, and group gear distribution. A way to bypass the need for a backcountry camping permit would be . Our guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb a glacier to the summit. Descending the Fisher Chimneys themselves is best done as a downclimb rather than a series of rappels. I didnt want to overburden myself so I made some judicious cuts to my clothing kit, accepting the fact that if the weather window collapsed it would be immediate cause to turn back. Approach Time to Camp: 5-6 hours. The trail descends onto a ridge then turns right and enters a gully. It was a good spot for it, and I figured this might be a useful skill later in the trip; plus, it gave me an excuse to have everyone practice roping up, coiling the rope, using their ice axes etc. But most people stick to one of three routes, the Sulphide Glacier, the Fisher Chimneys or the North Face. Backpacks smaller than 65 liters are not acceptable. During open hours at the Guide Hut, you may pick up pre-reserved rentals, try on rental boots, and purchase last-minute items. A two-day ascent of Mount Shuksan (9,131') via the Fisher Chimneys on August 16, 2020. Day 2: Alpine Breakfast, Lunch & snacks for climb to summit, Dinner Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. Video Resource: What to Expect the Morning of the Climb. The Guide Hut offers a selection of mountaineering equipment and clothing for purchase and rent. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. About halfway up, where you make a traverse from the lower to upper chimneys we broke through the cloud cover and were rewarded with beautiful views of Mt. After I tied back in for glacier travel, we made the very hot slog across the Upper Curtis back to high camp. 210 Ball Street Climb easy snow and rock, then climb 150 ft up a slope of steep snow or ice (Winnie's Slide, incorrectly labeled on the map), and cross through the ridge onto the Upper Curtis Glacier. These snacks can be critical for maintaining a steady supply of energy while moving up and down the mountain. Click here for directions Authorized guide services If you are just learning to climb or are looking to expand your mountaineering skills, a guided course or class might be right for you. This gully system is called Fisher Chimneys and contains sections of small gullies (chimneys) to climb up. This was his first time climbing in mountain boots as well. SE Ridge was clear of snow all the way to the summit, decent enough rock, no slings or anchors on the ridge proper. It had softened significantly, and we had been moving about 10 hours at this point, so I didnt think Joe and Rob wanted to solo downclimb at this point. The above photo shows Shuksan on the left and Baker on the right. Day Mt Shuksan Fisher Chimneys 4 Day Itinerary Day 1 At 8 am on Day 1, the team will meet at the Glacier Ranger Station. But, try to remember this: the thick wall of greenery that you must push through on a climb is part of what makes climbing in the Pacific Northwest unique and challenging, sometimes epic. Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284. Shuksan, 9131FT / 2783m . Fisher Chimneys with the more technical SE Ridge finish was a very bold trip for 2 brand new climbers, it took longer than expected. This was also a great opportunity to show them how to build a releasable anchor using the second rope to be efficient with our anchor materials and get Joe climbing quickly without needing to tear down a separate anchor at each station. Climbed mt Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys Route. Note: CamelBaks and other bladder-style hydration systems may be used in addition to two water bottles, but are not sufficient. How do you deal with human waste? Distance: 13.7 mi. We begin our approach to high camp at a trailhead near Artist Point and the Mount Baker Ski Area, then hike through . Headlamps on, we started the monotonous trail slog back to the cars. Limited services are available in Sedro-Woolley. Many a climber on a long, back-breaking approach has cursed thickets of devils club or slide alder or the clinging snags of downed trees. Climbs of Fisher Chimneys & the North Face are done on a private (1:1) or small, private group basis. The North Cascades Permit boundary is clearly marked after Lake Ann. North Cascades Alpine Climbing. You will need to obtain a NW Forest Pass or equivalent parking permit to leave your car at the trailhead lot. This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or for all portions of these zones, and was purposely limited, after two years of internal review and public comment, to areas of high use by both humans and wildlife, where wildlife has become habituated to getting human food, and other methods of food storage were ineffective, improper, or impossible. Mount Shuksan via the Fischer Chimneys Approach. Burlington, WA 98233, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington I can see why most experienced parties would simul or solo the ridge, as the crux 5.3-5.4-ish moves werent always protectable anyways. Meet at our Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA. Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Sulphide Glacier Approach. 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